The Draw of Northern Kentucky: Strange, Interesting, Quirky ... Amazing


Every area has its own identity, fueled by its history, local arts, attractions and favorite hangouts. But it's hard to imagine as diverse a tapestry of influences as Northern Kentucky boasts.

The area, nestled in the shadow of downtown Cincinnati, benefits from the advantages of the big city across the Ohio River while holding onto its small-town appeal with special developments, family-friendly businesses and sometimes quirky ties to its history as a river community.

"Historically, Northern Kentucky's a very interesting place," explains Jean St. John, the director of community initiatives for Covington-based Center for Great Neighborhoods. "We have a rich, diverse heritage and we celebrate those influences as much as our other cultural assets."

From new developments along the Newport riverfront to community staples such as The Blue Marble Bookstore and Vito's Cafe in Fort Thomas, and the venerable Anchor Grill in Covington, the area has an eclectic feel. With three riverboat quays on the river and an affinity for the strange — like the one-of-a-kind Vent Haven ventriloquist museum in Fort Mitchell, Petersburg's thriving Creationist Museum, or a small town in Boone County that has a dog for mayor — Northern Kentucky's identity is truly unique.

Arguably, the current crown jewel in that tapestry is the development of the Newport riverfront, which began with the Newport Aquarium opening in 1999, continued with the advent of Newport on the Levee shopping and entertainment complex two years later which is still adding top-tier restaurants, hotels and entertainment venues.

A decade ago, the area was little more than a mound of land meant to keep the Ohio River from flooding small neighborhoods along the banks.

A budding Northern Kentucky

The Aquarium, which began construction in 1997, continues to be an economic engine for the area.

"Physically, it's hard to imagine Northern Kentucky now without it," says Aquarium spokesman Rodger Pille. "The whole area has been transformed by having such a vital, ever-changing attraction here. The place doesn't stay the same for long, which is probably why we have some guests who visit weekly. They keep coming back to see everything we have, because you couldn't absorb all of it in one trip."

A few miles south of the aquarium, Fort Thomas boasts The Blue Marble Bookstore, an independent bookseller that specializes in children's publications, and Vito's Cafe, where you can be serenaded as you dine.

The Blue Marble, celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, is as much a family affair for local residents as it is a business, explains owner and manager Peter Moore. Started as a toyshop by his wife, Tina, the store changed over the years as the couple became more and more involved in children's books.

The couple's interest has sparked a whole community of authors and illustrators for children's books. More than 30 of them attended the official anniversary celebration in June.

"Outside of New York, where there is a large number of children's authors, Northern Kentucky has probably one of the highest concentration in the country, certainly one of the largest in the Midwest," Moore explains.

Through the store, national authors set up visits to local schools and publishers call to see what's new and popular because all of its employees are avid readers of the genre.

A few blocks away, you can almost hear the sound of Vito Ciepel's booming singing voice. The owner of Vito's Cafe, a veteran of New York's tradition of singing restaurateurs, opened the restaurant in 2001 with a menu inspired by his Italian heritage. The real draw, though, has arguably been the entertainment. Ciepel and his wife, Mary, hire their servers from the local universities' performing arts departments. As they serve meals, they also take requests for impromptu performances.

On any given night, with fine Italian food you'll also hear anything from "pop to Pagliacci," says Ciepel.

A graduate of the University of Cincinnati's College-Conservatory of Music, Ciepel enjoys mixing his first love of music with high cuisine. His signature performance, "Wheel of Parmigiano," includes the tableside preparation of fettucine alfredo made inside a hollowed-out wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

"Years ago, there were plenty of places like this in New York. We wanted to bring that experience back to Cincinnati, the kind of place with a cozy atmosphere, that's warm, inviting, serves great food and where the music is great," he explains, pointing out that even in New York, the tradition is becoming rare.

Mixing the new and the old

When it comes to tradition to Northern Kentucky's movers and shakers, a small diner that hasn't changed much since 1946 is the Anchor Grill.

The 63-year-old diner, open 24 hours a day and seven days a week, only closes for Christmas. Outside the diner in Covington, a neon sign blazes "We May Doze But Never Close." The decor has changed little since Virginia and Morton "Captain" Chapman opened its doors back in mid '40s, as a nod to the "Captain's" naval service during World War II. Its table jukeboxes still offer the Andrews Sisters and Glenn Miller.

It's still a draw for an eclectic crowd who wear anything from tweed business suits to nose rings and tattoos. It's a favorite hangout of local politicians, judges, city leaders and the journalists chasing them, going back as far as anyone remembers. That fact stems from Virginia, a politically astute woman and kingmaker in local politics, who held court from her corner stool at the diner for 50 years until her passing in 1996.

The diner's traditions continue under Virginia's daughter, Carolyn, and is still a gage for what's happening in Northern Kentucky.

The grill itself is one of the stops on a new effort to recognize all the area's defining locations, from its history-making stops to its architecture and arts significance.

Mixing the old and new, the city of Covington is featured in audio walking tours. Visitors are able to check out an MP3 player and maps which will take them on six different themed tours through the Experience Covington program.

Focused on the area's architecture, churches, arts, historical sites, a tour of the distinct neighborhoods of the city, and the "unexpected" ranging from old hangouts like the Anchor Grill to the city's more interesting landmarks – a spaceship-shaped "Futuro House" in West Covington. The project is the culmination of a year's cooperation among the city, the Center for Great Neighborhoods and Northern Kentucky University.

It all starts at the Covington branch of the Kenton County Public Library, which will house a kiosk to download maps and audio files to get visitors started on the tours.

"The important part, to me, was getting people's voices," says Jean St. John, who helped spearhead the program. "We got oral histories from people who are part of these sites, and people who fought to preserve the sites. It's about keeping our rich, diverse heritage alive."

Stops along the tour include the Roebling Suspension Bridge — one of the area's most beloved landmarks erected by the same architect that created the Brooklyn Bridge — and the striking new Ascent building on the riverfront.

Up at the general store

But in Northern Kentucky, if you're talking tradition, there's no place where it's stronger than at a general store on a small country road in western Boone County. There, the Rabbit Hash General Store remains much the same as it did when it opened in 1831 with its wood, rough-hewn floors.

Folks there still gather on the front porch to share the news of the day, use the store as an alternative message service and revel in its all things Covington as tourists buy antiques and Bybee Pottery.

"It's still the center of our world," says proprietor Terrie Markesbery, "the center of our universe."

It's also still the site of maybe the strangest of elections in the country, where the general store's cat, Travis, was a candidate in the 2008 mayoral race who ended up losing to a border collie named Lucy Lou, who got more than 8,000 votes in a town with about 40 residents. Go figure?

Among Travis' fellow "also-rans" were nine other dogs, a possum, a miniature donkey and one human. Votes are accepted from around the country, with the election used as a fund-raiser for local historic preservation efforts.

"You could travel all over, and I have, and you're not going to find any place like Rabbit Hash," beams Markesbery. "Like all of Northern Kentucky, it's a special place."



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Photos:

The Newport Aquarium
Vito Ciepel, owner of Vito's Cafe
The Ascent building
Servers from Vito's Cafe
The Roebling Suspension Bridge
Rabbit Hash General Store

All photos provided

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